Tuesday, December 29, 2009
Saturday, December 26, 2009
Getting Bent, Yoga Guru, and Black River Bass
We ended up spending the rest of our Baja time in the ex-patriot populated city of “Los Barriles”. Down an off the beaten-path road, my parents pop-up camper took a beating. One of the axles bent putting a wheel askew. They wanted to hunker down in Los Barriles while figuring out what to do. It ended up being a great spot to spend a week. We stayed in the camping section of an R.V. park. Space to put up our hammocks and the beautiful nearby beach made it very enjoyable. The most important thing was being able to spend time with my folks who I hadn't seen in a year, and who knows when I'll them see again. From Los Barriles we were able to do a couple of day trips. One to snorkel amongst dazzling schools of fish at Los Fariles. Another trip to circle the tip of the Baja and play in big waves on the pacific side. The owner of a recently opened fish taco stand in El Pescadero directed us to a beach where there was a resort, but also surfable waves. In exchange for the information, I showed him how to spell his sign “Fish Tacos” instead of “Fihs Tacos”. Very friendly guy and delicious tacos at the best price yet.
It was sad to leave my folks after having a great time together. With them we enjoyed beautiful beaches, caguamas (litre bottles of beer), good food, great conversation, snorkelling, and many hours of playing Big Boggle. We also finished off the last gallon of mead from a batch I had started almost a year ago. We had some unique experiences I'll never forget; like the time I got aggressive with two police officers who had pulled my folks over. They tried to give them a ticket for not wearing a seatbelt (even know they were wearing one). After awhile they let us go figuring we were more of a pain than they had bargained for. Asking for their badge numbers, the address of their office, and to speak with their cheif seemed to help.
Our last night we couch surfed (www.couchsurfing.org) in La Paz to catch the ferry the next day. This was our first time couch surfing in Mexico, but was with a guy from California, and England originally. Our host, Brian, was great. He was very generous and helpful. He pilots plains and helicopters and dose consulting. He had a condominium at a marina where some big sailboats are berthed. After a nice walk and some shopping, we retruned to his condo to make dinner together. Ilsa and I made a veggie dahl while he made pasta. We opened two bottles of wine and were joined by some of his friends. A woman, Jennifer, who just sailed in on a 48' sailboat. She was single handing it up and down the coast with her 10 year old son, Eric. After our main courses we were joined by to Mexican pilots, Sam and Samuel. One of them happens to also run a yoga ashram in La Paz. So, there we were, at dinner with three pilots, a bad ass sailor mom with a captain's license, and a yoga guru. One night was definitely too short for the interesting conversation shared. After breakfast and a tour of the sailboat we headed to catch the ferry.
Today is our second day on Mainland Mexico. The ferry ride was surprising, beautiful, and running on Mexican time. The ferry was much fancier that I had expected. On board there was an arcade, two bars, a restaurant, and several flat screen televisions showing movies. The sea was calm, but small swells rocked the boat enough to give Aña slight sea-sickness. It's a good thing Aña and Ilsa wanted to open our Christmas gifts aboard the ferry. A gift I had picked out was dried ginger which we made into tea and seemed to help with the nausea. Mainland was just coming into sight when another incredible sunset unfurled. We were off the ferry about two hours later than anticipated, and it was getting late. We stopped in the town of Los Mochis for dinner a perused a crowed Christmas market. Continuing to our destination the road condition deteriorated and I became to tired to continue driving. We pulled off onto a side road to camp near small shacks with pigs and chickens. The initial grunts of the massive pigs startled the girls who set up camp while I was passed out in the truck cab. I gave them the machete to hang onto in case the pigs attacked.
Now, we're inland at a smaller scenic town called El Fuerte for an old Spanish fort that has been replicated into a museum. I'm disappointed with the limited Lonely Planet description of this town. It is one of the more beautiful Mexican towns of its size I've seen. There is ubiquitous colonial architecture in various states of repair and disrepair. Even the dilapidated buildings hold a special charm. The town square is magnificent. Lush plants and palm trees lead past fountains to a Victorian wooden gazebo in the center. Ample benches provide rest in the cool shade and make-out spots for youngsters in the evening. Locals are very friendly, though not too talkative. The Lobina (a huge black river bass) from the bordering river is a local delicacy. This morning on a walk we watched an old man row an impromptu boat across the river to drop someone off. He wanted to take us across, so we had a little boat ride. On our walk to a fun suspension bridge we had to pass through an army of cows and patches of hungry no-see-ums. A wonderful morning walk, minus the no-see-ums.
We're staying in a hotel/hostel, “El Guerrero” (“The Soldier”). We were worried about staying here at first because most hotels are surprisingly expensive. Most wanted $50 U.S.d. or more per night for the three of us. Luckily we found three economical hotels and opted for the one that included breakfast. So for about $17/night we have a nice room with a bathroom and shower. Breakfast consisted of wonderful tacos with scrambled eggs, refried beans, and a homemade salsa. A great deal! $5.60/night/person including a yummy breakfast. The owner is an older guy who inherited the hotel from his grandfather through his mom. He shared some incredible local honey with us. Jokingly he said the honey is so good because the bees used pollen from marijuana plants. I know cannabis is usually wind or human pollinated, but the thought of stoned bees flying around was amusing. The owner even showed me how to prepare a Lobina I purchased for lunch.
Today we will prepare for our Copper Canyon trip! We'll hopefully be catching the 2nd class train tomorrow towards a canyon rim. There we'll be in a more winter climate at about 8000' in elevation. After a couple days of exploring the city of Creel and remembering what winter is like we'll descend into the canyon. It should be warmer in the canyon where orange trees and more tropical plants are grown. In the canyon we're hoping to get out hiking and do some more rustic camping. One hike between two cities deep in canyon country is about 20 miles.
* Travelling Note: So far our average spending has been $11/day per person since entering Mexico. This includes food, water, shelter, entertainment and transportation. This low number was helped out by my folks gifting us five nights of camping in Los Barriles. My mom had also brought us some money from a previously imported hammock that was sold in my hometown! Costs should decrease as we head south.
It was sad to leave my folks after having a great time together. With them we enjoyed beautiful beaches, caguamas (litre bottles of beer), good food, great conversation, snorkelling, and many hours of playing Big Boggle. We also finished off the last gallon of mead from a batch I had started almost a year ago. We had some unique experiences I'll never forget; like the time I got aggressive with two police officers who had pulled my folks over. They tried to give them a ticket for not wearing a seatbelt (even know they were wearing one). After awhile they let us go figuring we were more of a pain than they had bargained for. Asking for their badge numbers, the address of their office, and to speak with their cheif seemed to help.
Our last night we couch surfed (www.couchsurfing.org) in La Paz to catch the ferry the next day. This was our first time couch surfing in Mexico, but was with a guy from California, and England originally. Our host, Brian, was great. He was very generous and helpful. He pilots plains and helicopters and dose consulting. He had a condominium at a marina where some big sailboats are berthed. After a nice walk and some shopping, we retruned to his condo to make dinner together. Ilsa and I made a veggie dahl while he made pasta. We opened two bottles of wine and were joined by some of his friends. A woman, Jennifer, who just sailed in on a 48' sailboat. She was single handing it up and down the coast with her 10 year old son, Eric. After our main courses we were joined by to Mexican pilots, Sam and Samuel. One of them happens to also run a yoga ashram in La Paz. So, there we were, at dinner with three pilots, a bad ass sailor mom with a captain's license, and a yoga guru. One night was definitely too short for the interesting conversation shared. After breakfast and a tour of the sailboat we headed to catch the ferry.
Today is our second day on Mainland Mexico. The ferry ride was surprising, beautiful, and running on Mexican time. The ferry was much fancier that I had expected. On board there was an arcade, two bars, a restaurant, and several flat screen televisions showing movies. The sea was calm, but small swells rocked the boat enough to give Aña slight sea-sickness. It's a good thing Aña and Ilsa wanted to open our Christmas gifts aboard the ferry. A gift I had picked out was dried ginger which we made into tea and seemed to help with the nausea. Mainland was just coming into sight when another incredible sunset unfurled. We were off the ferry about two hours later than anticipated, and it was getting late. We stopped in the town of Los Mochis for dinner a perused a crowed Christmas market. Continuing to our destination the road condition deteriorated and I became to tired to continue driving. We pulled off onto a side road to camp near small shacks with pigs and chickens. The initial grunts of the massive pigs startled the girls who set up camp while I was passed out in the truck cab. I gave them the machete to hang onto in case the pigs attacked.
Now, we're inland at a smaller scenic town called El Fuerte for an old Spanish fort that has been replicated into a museum. I'm disappointed with the limited Lonely Planet description of this town. It is one of the more beautiful Mexican towns of its size I've seen. There is ubiquitous colonial architecture in various states of repair and disrepair. Even the dilapidated buildings hold a special charm. The town square is magnificent. Lush plants and palm trees lead past fountains to a Victorian wooden gazebo in the center. Ample benches provide rest in the cool shade and make-out spots for youngsters in the evening. Locals are very friendly, though not too talkative. The Lobina (a huge black river bass) from the bordering river is a local delicacy. This morning on a walk we watched an old man row an impromptu boat across the river to drop someone off. He wanted to take us across, so we had a little boat ride. On our walk to a fun suspension bridge we had to pass through an army of cows and patches of hungry no-see-ums. A wonderful morning walk, minus the no-see-ums.
We're staying in a hotel/hostel, “El Guerrero” (“The Soldier”). We were worried about staying here at first because most hotels are surprisingly expensive. Most wanted $50 U.S.d. or more per night for the three of us. Luckily we found three economical hotels and opted for the one that included breakfast. So for about $17/night we have a nice room with a bathroom and shower. Breakfast consisted of wonderful tacos with scrambled eggs, refried beans, and a homemade salsa. A great deal! $5.60/night/person including a yummy breakfast. The owner is an older guy who inherited the hotel from his grandfather through his mom. He shared some incredible local honey with us. Jokingly he said the honey is so good because the bees used pollen from marijuana plants. I know cannabis is usually wind or human pollinated, but the thought of stoned bees flying around was amusing. The owner even showed me how to prepare a Lobina I purchased for lunch.
Today we will prepare for our Copper Canyon trip! We'll hopefully be catching the 2nd class train tomorrow towards a canyon rim. There we'll be in a more winter climate at about 8000' in elevation. After a couple days of exploring the city of Creel and remembering what winter is like we'll descend into the canyon. It should be warmer in the canyon where orange trees and more tropical plants are grown. In the canyon we're hoping to get out hiking and do some more rustic camping. One hike between two cities deep in canyon country is about 20 miles.
* Travelling Note: So far our average spending has been $11/day per person since entering Mexico. This includes food, water, shelter, entertainment and transportation. This low number was helped out by my folks gifting us five nights of camping in Los Barriles. My mom had also brought us some money from a previously imported hammock that was sold in my hometown! Costs should decrease as we head south.
Tuesday, December 15, 2009
Baja Sur with my Folks!
Almost two weeks have passed by in blissful beach going. After leaving Ensenada, Aña, Ilsa, and I headed south to meet up with my folks. On our way, we pulled off the highway in the middle of the desert to camp. Even though we were near the highway the site and sunset were beautiful. There was a plenitude of prickly cacti diversity. The sunset lit the sky ablaze with hues of neon orange and smooth spreads of purple. The sunset was only a prelude for the nearly full orange moon rising in the opposite direction. With the nearly full moon came strange dreams and howling coyotes.
We found my folks south of the town of Mulegé in their pop-up camper on the beach of Santispac. A small beautiful beach formerly owned by an ejido, but now under private ownership. Like most of the beaches and “gringo camping” it was speckled with RV's. RV's seem to be the preferred way to camp in the Baja for migrating snow birds. It was, however, a great spot to relax after some long hauls in the truck from Santa Cruz.
Camping on the beaches of Baja is beautiful but not always accommodating for the shoe-string budget. Prices seem to range from $5-8 per person per night. Average hotel rooms go for $20-$80/night depending on where you're at. Food is more expensive than mainland, but generally still cheaper than in the U.S. Most food is imported from mainland Mexico and the U.S.
My folks are travelling more economically than many Baja goers, but still brought some toys. Their “rig” seems hilarious at times and laborious to frequently relocate. They're towing a modified pop-up trailer with a four-wheeler on the front and an inflatable kayak on top. In the back of the truck, of course, is a motorcycle for cruising the roads in style. Leave one camp site we ended up spending a morning getting the truck and trailer un-stuck from the engulfing sand trap of the beach. I was very happy to have four-wheel drive and hooked up to their trailer with our truck. After an hour of tricky maneuvering and digging, we were back on the road.
We decided to try and camp at a place on the map labeled “Puerto Chale”. We didn't know much about it, other than it was by the Pacific and en-route to our next destination. It ended up being a small isolated fishing village. We were quite the spectacle; driving through the small village with two trucks, one with a camper, motorcycle, and four-wheeler. We found a space to camp on the outskirts and enjoyed another beautiful view of the sunset. We talked to some locals and convinced them that we weren't too loco. My parents surprised me by ending up exploring the town on their own. With their limited Spanish they ended up getting invited to a bonfire, drinking beer from a small tienda, and finding the one English speaker in the village.
Stopping outside of La Paz, we made preperations for taking the vehicle to mainland Mexico. We had to temporarily import the vehicle and buy ferry tickets for ourselves and the truck. For the importation and the ferry transportation the total came to around $400. A little pricey, but it beats driving back up the Baja and around. Plus, we'll be de-boarding near the town to catch a train ride. We're planning on taking the only train in Mexico north from Topolobampo to the Copper Canyon. It's accredited with being one of the most scenic train rides in the world!
Until then, we'll continue our beach lounging. We're currently on a beach at La Ventana. It's a beautiful bay with strong winds in the afternoon. It's a destination for migrating kite-surfers and wind-surfers. In the afternoon around one hundred kite-surfers can be seen on the bay. It is a surreal scene with the droves of parafoiled colors hovering over the bay waters. Our next destination is Cabo Pulmo where we'll be able to snorkel on the only pacific reef in North America.
We found my folks south of the town of Mulegé in their pop-up camper on the beach of Santispac. A small beautiful beach formerly owned by an ejido, but now under private ownership. Like most of the beaches and “gringo camping” it was speckled with RV's. RV's seem to be the preferred way to camp in the Baja for migrating snow birds. It was, however, a great spot to relax after some long hauls in the truck from Santa Cruz.
Camping on the beaches of Baja is beautiful but not always accommodating for the shoe-string budget. Prices seem to range from $5-8 per person per night. Average hotel rooms go for $20-$80/night depending on where you're at. Food is more expensive than mainland, but generally still cheaper than in the U.S. Most food is imported from mainland Mexico and the U.S.
My folks are travelling more economically than many Baja goers, but still brought some toys. Their “rig” seems hilarious at times and laborious to frequently relocate. They're towing a modified pop-up trailer with a four-wheeler on the front and an inflatable kayak on top. In the back of the truck, of course, is a motorcycle for cruising the roads in style. Leave one camp site we ended up spending a morning getting the truck and trailer un-stuck from the engulfing sand trap of the beach. I was very happy to have four-wheel drive and hooked up to their trailer with our truck. After an hour of tricky maneuvering and digging, we were back on the road.
We decided to try and camp at a place on the map labeled “Puerto Chale”. We didn't know much about it, other than it was by the Pacific and en-route to our next destination. It ended up being a small isolated fishing village. We were quite the spectacle; driving through the small village with two trucks, one with a camper, motorcycle, and four-wheeler. We found a space to camp on the outskirts and enjoyed another beautiful view of the sunset. We talked to some locals and convinced them that we weren't too loco. My parents surprised me by ending up exploring the town on their own. With their limited Spanish they ended up getting invited to a bonfire, drinking beer from a small tienda, and finding the one English speaker in the village.
Stopping outside of La Paz, we made preperations for taking the vehicle to mainland Mexico. We had to temporarily import the vehicle and buy ferry tickets for ourselves and the truck. For the importation and the ferry transportation the total came to around $400. A little pricey, but it beats driving back up the Baja and around. Plus, we'll be de-boarding near the town to catch a train ride. We're planning on taking the only train in Mexico north from Topolobampo to the Copper Canyon. It's accredited with being one of the most scenic train rides in the world!
Until then, we'll continue our beach lounging. We're currently on a beach at La Ventana. It's a beautiful bay with strong winds in the afternoon. It's a destination for migrating kite-surfers and wind-surfers. In the afternoon around one hundred kite-surfers can be seen on the bay. It is a surreal scene with the droves of parafoiled colors hovering over the bay waters. Our next destination is Cabo Pulmo where we'll be able to snorkel on the only pacific reef in North America.
Saturday, December 5, 2009
Arrival in The Baja!
Today, Dec. 3rd, I awake in Ensenada, Baja Norte, Mexico. Three summers have passed since I've been south of the border and it feels good to be back. It feels good partly because amongst the downgraded economy, confusion, and hustle and bustle a generally more tranquil lifestyle is already apparent. It also feels good because after two nights of camping and two long days of driving I've slept in a very decent hotel room. My traveling companions seem equally content as they're still fast asleep.
The border crossing was extremely easy, but a little confusing. If we we're just planning on travelling down the Baja we could have just be waved through; without stopping or talking to anyone. However, since we plan on ferrying our truck over to the mainland, extra paper work was needed. Luckily we stopped to ask about tourist cards and a cute old man pointed us to a parking lot around the corner. Otherwise we would have been truly lost. Spanish speaking definitely a necessity. We oped to avoid crossing into a large city and instead crossed in Tecate, a small town 20 miles east of Tijuana.
One of the first recommendations I read about driving on the Baja is to not drive after dark. Oops! The first and last third of Highway from Tecate to Ensenanda is great. It appears to be brand new and was pot hole free! The middle third, however, is under construction. This meant we we're waved through various construction zones while zig-zagging across the future road to rutty temporary side roads. It really wasn't too bad, but slowed us down. We didn't reach Ensenada until dark. It was very confusing at night trying to find the area where we planned to look for a room. Luckily, a friendly older woman cleared things up when stopping to ask for directions.
The keeper of the small hotel we decided to stay at directed us to an area to get some good dinner. I asked for some more traditional food outside of the tourist zone. There is a ritzy street here for cruise ship hoards with more expensive and international foods. We ended up finding “Tacos Maru” an excellent fonda; cheaper eatery. We ordered some amazing pazole, tacos, enchiladas, and we each had a drink. The whole meal with drinks came to about $15. Still a little expensive, but the food was amazing.
This morning I will cook breakfast for my excellent travelling companions. Our $35 dollar a night room comes complete with a kitchen, filtered water, and one of the hottest showers I've ever seen in Mexico. An expense and luxury that our budgets and travelling style will not allow to be common place.
The border crossing was extremely easy, but a little confusing. If we we're just planning on travelling down the Baja we could have just be waved through; without stopping or talking to anyone. However, since we plan on ferrying our truck over to the mainland, extra paper work was needed. Luckily we stopped to ask about tourist cards and a cute old man pointed us to a parking lot around the corner. Otherwise we would have been truly lost. Spanish speaking definitely a necessity. We oped to avoid crossing into a large city and instead crossed in Tecate, a small town 20 miles east of Tijuana.
One of the first recommendations I read about driving on the Baja is to not drive after dark. Oops! The first and last third of Highway from Tecate to Ensenanda is great. It appears to be brand new and was pot hole free! The middle third, however, is under construction. This meant we we're waved through various construction zones while zig-zagging across the future road to rutty temporary side roads. It really wasn't too bad, but slowed us down. We didn't reach Ensenada until dark. It was very confusing at night trying to find the area where we planned to look for a room. Luckily, a friendly older woman cleared things up when stopping to ask for directions.
The keeper of the small hotel we decided to stay at directed us to an area to get some good dinner. I asked for some more traditional food outside of the tourist zone. There is a ritzy street here for cruise ship hoards with more expensive and international foods. We ended up finding “Tacos Maru” an excellent fonda; cheaper eatery. We ordered some amazing pazole, tacos, enchiladas, and we each had a drink. The whole meal with drinks came to about $15. Still a little expensive, but the food was amazing.
This morning I will cook breakfast for my excellent travelling companions. Our $35 dollar a night room comes complete with a kitchen, filtered water, and one of the hottest showers I've ever seen in Mexico. An expense and luxury that our budgets and travelling style will not allow to be common place.
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