It has been a whirlwind of travelling since we left the Pacific coast of Mexico two weeks ago. We have been moving fast through much of Mexico. We are feeling the stress of being on the road and not being able to spend too much time in one location. There is usually not enough time to read a decent amount, play guitar, practice yoga, meditate, go fishing, or really even kick back and relax. More importantly it has been hard to find time for ourselves. Time where the three of us aren't side by side exploring or crammed in the tiny Toyota truck. Travelling in the fast lane is also creating friction in our relationships; my relationship with Aña, and our friendship with Ilsa. We are expediting our venture through Mexico so Ilsa can be with us in Guatemala. She has to return to Oregon in the beginning of March to secure her job at Breitenbush Hot Springs. Travelling with a deadline is definitely not an easy way to travel, especially through Mexico.

Mexico is a vast country with amazing things to see and do throughout. It is one of the most biologically diverse countries attributed to equally diverse ecosystems. Within a short drive you can travel from a lush tropical micro-climate on the coast, through a dessert, an then up a mountain through oak and pine forests. There are huge rivers, canyons, caves, volcanoes, and snow capped mountains reaching up almost 20,000'. Equally as diverse as the country's ecology are it's people. There are close to a hundred remaining indigenous groups with 62 “recognized” languages. In rural areas there are people who wear clothing that has been fashioned the same way for thousands of years. Conversely, in cities there are people sporting the latest European and U.S. styles. There are people who want to return to ancestral traditions practicing ancient ceremonies and attending sweat-lodges. At the same time there are more more modern folks constantly plugged into the T.V., a cell phone, or an ipod, and chugging cocacola.

If we had more time I think we would be starting to work on organic farms or find volunteer work. Such opportunities have already surfaced, but we chose to forgo. There seemed ample volunteer or work opportunities in one small coastal town Aña and I really liked. The town has two names, San Pancho and San Francisco, and is located on the coast just North of Puerto Vallarta. We had an amazing time there staying with a mutual friend, Caroline and her husband Ben. We also had the pleasure of hanging out with their two wonderful kids and their lovely au' pér, Eileen. Caroline we had known from Breitenbush as a visiting massage therapist and healer. Ben, who we came to know well, is a surgeon with a great knowledge of nutrition and ancient healing techniques. They were very kind and hospitable to us. The shared an apartment they're renting with us and made us feel like part of the family. We went out dancing with Caroline and Eileen, and I was pummeled in massive waves with Ben. The beach in San Pancho had some of the biggest waves I've dared to swim in.

After leaving the coast we headed inland to Autlán where I studied as an exchange student three years ago. Even though most of the friends I made had graduated from the University there were still a few in town. One friend, David, has recently opened up an excellent restaurant. We stayed with him and enjoyed a couple of dinners at his restaurant. From Autlán we headed inland further to the large city of Guadalajara. Guadalajara is a crazy huge city. Luckily my well grounded friend, Fernando, hosted us an kept us sane. He took us to a traditional sweat lodge (temezcal) that was hosted by a visiting Navajo chief. He also took us into a beautiful nearby reserve and to a native dance ceremony.

After leaving Guadalajara we were able to visit one more friend who I lived with while studying in Autlán. We found Manuel in Zamora, Michoacán, where he studying rural sociology. He took us to a village of indigenous Purepecha where we camped on a friend's land. The village is quite an oddity. Most people speak their native language and not Spanish. Throughout the day advertisements, in Purepecha, for hamburgers and other food are broadcast over the city via loud speaker. These start before 7:00a.m. and continue well past 10:00p.m. There were also small firework explosions, roosters, dogs, a lost stampeding horse colt, and a small brass band all making noise near where we were camped. Nevertheless, we had an amazing all day hike from here. We left the city at 8:00a.m. hiking through a frost laden forest to a barren lava field. We spent over three hours traversing the massive lava field to reach the base of volcán Paricutín. It is the youngest volcano in the world forming in 1943. We summited the cinder cone of the volcano in about half an hour. The top offered incredible views of nearby mountains, the inside of the volcano, and of steaming fumaroles around volcano's crest. We ate lunch on top and used a small fumarole to heat up some tortillas! Returning back to the village around 6:00p.m. we were all tired and sunburned, but very content.

To be continued with future internet access......
P.S. It's Aña's birthday today. We're in Oaxaca city and headed for the mountains today. We'll be doing some more camping and hiking up around 9000'.